Last Stand on the Nevis

Robin is a mate we've been paddling with on and off since we first arrived in Hokitika. He really REALLY likes kayaking and after 3 seasons in NZ the one river that has escaped his grasp is the infamous Nevis river. So it was that he came storming into the room to order us out of bed and inform us that, contrary to forecast rain, the river was at a high but do-able level. We picked up Scottish Paul on the way, dropped a car at the take out and made the 1 hour drive to the put in, a drive that involves rather a lot of climbing!

What can I say, this river is intense - just dropping out of the mountains with a vengence. The day is a blur of endless class 5 rapids, stacked with real difficulty and real consequence. Good lines, bad lines and everything in between. With none of us having done the river before, it was 8 hours before we reached the take out, absolutely destroyed! I've never felt like puking with fatigue on a river before. A great run to finish my trip. Such a great day in fact that we decided to drag it right up till 5am with a flat battery / low fuel / no call credit fiasco. But that's another story...

That's the end of my NZ trip and probably the end of this blog. It's been a great trip with some super paddling and a really solid crew. If anyone is interested in doing a kayaking trip out here I will do a full article on the main website www.rivernomad.com with all the info you need to get you going. Thanks to all the folk who help me out along the way (Dagger, Palm, Rough Stuff, Great Outdoors). Thanks to Rob for taking such cool pictures and to Jimmy for being such a culchie...

Shotover for Stephen's Day

James (we forgive you for nearly ruining Christmas) Foerster

Dr Robin (who really likes kayaking) Scott

The Shotover is the local run here in Queenstown. Running at a high water 85 cumecs in a cool valley, it's a nice way to spend St Stephen's Day.

Christmas in Queenstown

Dr Robin Scott

James Key Breaker Foerster

So wild places are all well and good but for Christmas you gotta go where the craic and banter is and meet up with whatever friends you've made along the way. Besides, there's only so much of Rob's company a man can take! So, a bus back to Queenstown on Christmas Eve where the young Yankie lad James prompty snapped our only key to the Serena. It didn't stop us scoring some big vol fun on the Kawarau Christmas Day though, before partying it up at a bbq with the Scottish boys into the wee hours.

Doubtful Sound

Ferrying across Lake Manapouri

The head of Doubtful Sound as seen from the pass.

Getting a weather forecast on the VHF

Sandfly shelter

Our hike had taken us into Fiordland - a wild and very beautiful area in New Zealand's South West. We decided to make for Doubtful Sound, hiring sea kayaks for a 3 day trip exploring the fiord's many arms. It rains 2 days out of 3 here and winds can reach over 100 knots. Somehow though we scored 3 sunny days with light breezes. The area is completely uninhabited, with lush green temperate rainforest and steep cliffs dropping right into the water. Just getting there requires a boat trip across Lake Manapouri and a bus ride over a pass. A class trip shared only with dolphins, seals and about 3 billion sandflies!

Routeburn Track

With just myself and Rob left in our trusty wagon, we decided to hit the road and see some more of the country. First mission - a hike along the Routeburn track into Fiordland. The Routeburn is one of New Zealand's Great Walks, which means the track is well maintained, there are huts and campsites along the way and the scenery is top class. It took us 2 days.

Hokitika

Jimmy drops into the entry drop on the first Gorge

I do likewise.

Rob on yet another no-way-out rapid.

Jimmy in the spectacular and (thankfully) flat water Gates of Arganoth gorge.

Jimmy and Hugh's last day so we decided to have a crack at the famous Hokitika gorges. This is one of the most intimidating and committing sections of river I have ever been on. On the fly in all we could see was flashes of white, white and more white, buried in 4 deep canyons. Linking the canyons were steep boulder rapids, choked with sieves. There is no trail whatsoever - just dense bush. To add to the drama, on occassions you can't see fully around the corner and have to take several leaps of faith. Not the place to mess up or break gear. After 5 hours of intense class 5 boating we reached the confluence with the Whitcombe, exhausted but very happy! We've enjoyed a tight crew with Rob, Jimmy, Hugh and myself and scored some world class paddling with the weather finally coming good. Now in Christchurch enjoying some urban pleasures (like showers) and seeing Jimmy and Hugh off. I will stay till New Years and Rob is here indefinitely.

Whitcombe

When the weather is good, just keep on flying. The Whitcombe was the target this time - bigger volume but easier gradient - another class day of wilderness kayaking. Pictures are Hugh, myself and Jimmy - captions welcomed for Jimmy's photo...

Arahura

The classic heli trip of the west coast at a beautiful level on a sunny day. It doesn't get much better than this.

Crooked

Time to step things up again with a gruelling 1 1/2 hr hike into the Crooked river with some Scottish boys, through muck and undergrowth. Well worth it as we were rewarded with some super boating - steep but clean. Photos show Rob ducking into another knuckle scraper, Scottish Colin hitting his line and everyone enjoying the hike in!

Toaroa

After some lengthy, ice cream fuelled decision making, we decided to head back to Hokitika and the wet and wild west coast, hoping that the rain would hold up long enough to do some heli-boating classics. With levels still not there we flew higher up the Toaroa for some easy but fun boating. The picture shows how Bruce (our pilot) deals with 8 kayaks and not enough landing space - tie 'em on with a throw rope and drop 'em on a beach...

Waikaia and Manihurikia

The lads hooked up with Canadian Dave Prothero and scored this wee stomper down South. Check out Dave's blog on www.raftinglife.blogspot.com for more stories and pictures. Then I re-joined the team on the Manihurikia - another great run. Feels more like Colorado or France down here with dry landscapes. Plenty of water though and we scored a high water run in amazing scenery.

Routeburn

A funky little run in stunning scenery. Our day was made quite interesting with the vertical pinning of a paddler who had joined us. A scare for the girl involved and a tough rescue scenario to retrieve the boat, but a happy ending for all. Pics are Jimmy and new crew member Hugh from England.